In the heart of the arid and spell-binding deserts of Rajasthan, where the sun blazes punishingly and the land stretches without end, there exists a world of colour, craft, and creativity – a world brought to life through the age-old art of desert embroideries. A world that we at RangSutra strive to showcase to the world. These exquisite and vibrant embroideries, including Soof, Pakka, Kharek, and Sindhi, serve as a testament to the rich cultural heritage and unyielding spirit of the artisans who call this desert landscape home.
Rooted in History
The story of desert embroideries in India traces back to the Meghawaad community, who migrated from Sindh, Pakistan during the tumultuous 1971 war. Settling in the Bikaner and Barmer districts of Western Rajasthan, these artisans carried with them the legacy of their
craft, which has been passed down through generations. Today, RangSutra, an organization proudly owned by over 2000 artisans, is dedicated to upholding and showcasing these obscure and formidable arts of India.
Soof Embroidery: A Labor of Love
"Soof" translates to "Neat and Clean," and it perfectly encapsulates the essence of this delicate embroidery. Unlike many other embroidery styles, Soof rarely relies on outlines or drawings on the fabric. Instead, artisans mentally conceptualize and plot their designs by counting the warp and weft threads of the fabric. Working from the reverse side, they insert the needle at regular and designated intervals to form highly geometric patterns including “tippi” or diamonds, and “kungri” or triangles, creating a front display so fine and precise
that it can often be mistaken for weaving or machine embroidery.
Kharek Embroidery: Geometric Marvels
Kharek embroidery, also a counted thread style, finds its beauty in geometric forms and intricate motifs. The name itself is reminiscent of the tactile textual quality of the dates tree and the Kharek bharat is an exultant inspiration of the form. Craftswomen meticulously plot squares and rectangles to constitute the grid of these forms, using a dark colour to outline the grid and filling the spaces with a kaleidoscope of colours. The pattern is executed with the black outline of double running stitch and then the surface front is filled in with bar-shaped clusters of satin stitches along the warp and weft of the textile, of which the end result is of clusters of bar-like shapes. The addition of mirrors provide a dazzling finishing touch, adding magic to the geometric wonders.
Pakka Embroidery: Strength in Stitches
"Pakka" meaning strong and durable, aptly characterizes this sturdy and dense embroidery style. The unique identity of this needled embellishment is the use of black colour for outlining, utilizing a slanted satin stitch or a square chain stitch. The outlining a dense variation of the buttonhole stitch, which gives a raised appearance. Craftswomen employ embroidery in a dense manner to create an array of motifs, from curvilinear and geometric, to floral and figurative. Highlighting these motifs with a separate stitch, “kanch” or mirrors to lighten the denseness and add dimension to the artwork.
Sindhi Embroidery: Interlacing Stories
Sindhi embroidery, also known as interlacing embroidery, weaves together stories with its intricate patterns. Sindh represents a unique geographical entity in the history of the Indian subcontinent. Drained by the Indus, its fertile plains stretch between the mountain ranges of Baluchistan to the west and the Thar Desert in the east. Situated at the crossroads of diverse cultural influences, its physical terrain has fostered a variety of crafts from the time of Indus civilization, 5000 years ago to the present. Chevrons and checks form the backbone of this tyle, occasionally blooming into floral and bird motifs. The interlacing stitch worked over a laid foundation of threads is the signature style. What truly distinguishes Sindhi embroidery are the tiny to big mirrors, colourful beads, ribbons, and coins used to embellish the patterns. The artisans employ a hooked needle and a bamboo frame to meticulously bring these designs to life, creating a tapestry of tradition and artistry.
Preserving a Precious Heritage
The embroideries of the desert not only serve as a testament to the artistic prowess of the artisans but also reflect their resilience and determination. As RangSutra continues to collaborate with these talented individuals in Bikaner and Barmer, it not only preserves a rich cultural heritage but also empowers the artisans to create sustainable livelihoods for themselves and their communities.
Desert embroideries embody leagues ahead of being just intricate designs on fabric. They are a living, breathing embodiment of a heritage passed down through generations, a testament to the strength of communities, and a colourful tapestry that tells the story of a land as vast and varied as Rajasthan. RangSutra's commitment to these embroideries is not just a business endeavor; it's a tribute to the enduring spirit of the artisans who have made the desert bloom
with their vibrant threads of tradition and resilience.
A note on our newest collection:
In the heart of Rajasthan, culture and craft merge to create our latest collection, "Shifrah"- This festive blouse collection features contemporary Soof embroidery by artisans from the Pugal region of Rajasthan. Drawing inspiration from the deserts muted tones, "Shifrah" celebrates the age-old practice of adorning simple fabrics with vibrant desert embroidery. Crafted with precision and dedication, each blouse takes three-quarters of a day to stitch and a full day to embroider. Shifrah is more than just clothing; it's a piece of vibrant culture, embodying the spirit of Rajasthan and the artistry of our skilled artisans. At RangSutra, we are committed to preserving and promoting these exquisite desert embroideries. Join us in celebrating tradition and creativity with Shifrah; where every thread tells a story and every stitch is a tribute to Rajasthan's enduring spirit.
Sources:
https://houseofpakistan.com/sindhi-embroidery-land-gujrat/
https://shrujanlldc.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/SODHA,%20JADEJA.pdf
https://shrujanlldc.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/MEGHWAAD%20MAARU.pdf